After having a divine darshan in Ayodhya, we started towards our second destination and reached the railway station @ 9pm and got settled in an electric rickshaw, starting towards our hotel on a winter night. My heart filled with the joy and devotion, watching the colourful streets with sparkling lights across the city celebrating its existence. It is my, or rather our favourite place on this planet I could say. It is considered to be the oldest living city in the world, older than history, older than tradition, older even than legends & looks twice as old as all of them put together. A doorway for the beyond, and an epitome of creation in its energy form. This is the beautiful place that exists only a few, where the birth and death meet on the shore of Ganga. Which is a central place in the traditions of pilgrimage, faith, devotion which leads to salvation. It is said three worlds form one city. According to Upanishad’s this city rests on the trident (Trishul) of the Lord Shiva. This ancient city was built as an instrument that gives human beings the phenomenal possibilities of uniting with the cosmic whole. On the shore of Ganga, from sunrise to sunset, this city paints a canvas of divine inspiration. This city illuminates truth and reveals reality. It does not bring new wonders into the scope of vision, but enables one to see what is already there. Where this eternal light intersects the earth, which is a mystical realm and a timeless destination that transcends mere sightseeing. It is not less than heaven, with the divine's energy. We arrived to explore the mysteries of spirituality, "Dev Nagari - Kashi".
This was our second visit to Kashi. Our first visit was just after Covid, which was not planned and was spontaneous. It was my sudden wish to visit Kashi and everything got planned according to my wish, from hotel we stayed to having Vishwanath Baba darshan with Maha Rudrabhishek, to walk on ghats etc. As if a child's wish was fulfilled. Since then, it has become my second home. The joy after reaching Varanasi or Banaras, (One city many names) was a home - calling for me. R was tired and sleepy as we reached the railway station. We had travelled from Ayodhya to Kashi in Vande Bharath express, super-fast, clean, and convenient with no traffic, due to the seasonal rush. R loves train travels too. The moment we started towards our hotel, watching the decorated streets of Kashi, R was back in his form. Super happy and energetic. I was equally elevated with the happiness, that Mahadev called us for the second time. The city looked like a postcard celebrating its existence. It was half past 10 in the night, and we got settled in one of the beautiful hotels in Kashi. It is a palace turned into a beautiful luxurious hotel. We stayed in the same hotel on our first visit too. So, this is our home in the city.
In earlier times it was believed only after human's reach 60 or start their Vanaprasthashrama, are supposed to travel to Kashi to attain Moksha. But in our first visit I understood, one has to travel to Kashi to attain spiritual enlightenment and liberation from the cycle of life and death, which leave a lasting spiritual impact and inspire a deeper understating at a young age. And yes, in Kashi one has to be ready to walk miles, to see the real Varanasi, which has narrow and puzzled alleys, beautiful temples, shrines, all the major markets, cultural and religious diversity, and the most famous real Varanasi-food, people, cows and bulls, all is found inside the alleys which are not possible to visit by any vehicles.
On the second day in Kashi, we started in tuktuk to Kaal Bhairav temple. Sri Kaal Bhairav baba is the form of Bhagwan Shiva, who rules Kashi. It is one of the oldest and most revered Shiva temples in Varanasi. The word "Kaal" holds triple meanings - 'Time', 'Death', and 'Fate', signifying Bhagvan Bhairav’s dominion over the three. According to popular belief, even death itself trembles before Kaal Bhairav. Bhairav baba is regarded as the Kashi's Kotwal (guardian), and it is said that anyone wishing to reside in the city or visit Kashi Vishwanath temple, must seek his divine permission. And this temple often has long queues, but it moves quickly. To avoid mid-morning/noon rush we reached the temple in the morning, and surprised with the crowd and heavy rush, due to the ongoing Maha Kumbh. After walking for 1 and half hour, we finally got the divine darshan of Lord Kaal Bhairav, who was majestically standing wearing a garland of skulls and carrying a club adorned with peacock feathers, symbolizing his formidable nature. In this temple as the sun sets the temple prepares for its nightly ritual, the Shayan Aarti. It is believed that the deity, Kaal Bhairav himself, awakens from his timeless slumber. It is my wish to witness this arti in this lifetime, as one has to be patient and hold on to night's sleep. Between 12pm to 1am, as per the season. The Aarti rises to its peak! It is said every moment during this arti, is governed by discipline as one stands in reverence.
On the same day in the evening we started, to one of the most significant Ghats of Kashi - ''Dashashwamedh Ghat". This bustling Ghat is the second of the five holy tirthas to take bath/dip in the Ganges. And also, very famous for its - 'Ganga Aarti'. This ghat is located close to Kashi Vishwanath temple. According to Purana's, in the heart of Dashashwamedh ghat, Bhagwan Brahma himself performed the grand 'Ashvamedha (ten horse sacrifices), with king Divodasa (King of Kashi). This ghat whispers of those long-ago sacrifices promise to confer the vast benefits upon each bather as ten Ashvamedha rituals. We reached the Dashashwamedh ghat around 6.15pm, due to crowd all over, with the help of a local people, we climbed 4 floors and stood on the last floor of his building which looked almost reaching the clouds, there were few foreigners who were already seated on chairs to witness the grand Ganga Aarti. We got settled, and to my amazement there were no boundaries to my joy, our view was almost like touching the sky, and the Ganges were shimmering like gold on that evening after sunset. As the sun's fiery embrace begins to wane, the Ganges stir, her currents reflecting hues of marigold and crimson. At twilight, the temple bells begin to sing, their melodious hymns resonating in perfect harmony. The conch rising in the air, the synchronised movements of priests, the waves of oil lamps on the river, and the vibrant colors of the offerings create a mesmerizing spectacle. The Ganga embrace the pilgrims, and the evening transforms into a symphony of devotion. The evening Ganga Aarti unveils its true enchantment. " Har Har Gange"
Next day we got ready and all set for the day tour. I had made a check-list where to eat, which ghats and temples to visit, keeping the rush in the mind. These cities were heavily crowded with the biggest festival of the Millenium had started (The Maha Kumbh). On our third day in Kashi - we visited nearby temples - Tulasi Manas, Durga Temple, Sankat Mochan Hanuman temple, Tri-dev temple. All these temples are located in the radius of 1km. The joy of travelling in that electric rickshaw (tuktuk) and cycle rickshaw, was of a great joy in itself. This is the best mode of transport in Kashi to avoid traffic. After a point one has to walk in those small narrow lanes, to see the real beauty of Kashi. Kashi is no mere holiday destination but a gateway to eternity, where life is observed, lived and felt with each passing moment. From the ghats to the picturesque landscapes, you will embark on a journey of discovery, experiencing the soul of this ancient city in all its glory. After a good 4 hours of ride in tuktuk and completing our 10k plus steps, we were super hungry, and started towards the Banaras - Shaan, "The Ram Bhandar" Here we get lip smacking, authentic breakfast, delicious - Kachori Sabji and crispy mouth-watering, Jalebi made in desi ghee (clarified butter) Situated in the heart of the city Thateri Bazar. We walked almost 1 km in search of this shop, through narrow lanes, when we were heavenly hungry (ha-ha) Finally we spotted the shop, rushed inside to get a token. In a matter of 5 min, it went heavily crowded. After a wait of 40 min, we finally got our hands on the most lip-smacking breakfast of Banaras. After each bite there was hmmmm- Wah! My soul was happy (ha-ha).
We reached our hotel and spent a peaceful lovely evening, in the golden hour. Smelling the greens on a winter evening, in the beautiful lawns sitting on a wooden bench, sipping hot coffee. In winter the sun sets quite early. After 3 days of zip around, this was the most relaxing evening, we were looking for. R enjoyed his swing in the garden. At night we had an early dinner. This hotel has the most delicious, authentic food on their menu. We had a hearty meal. Went to bed early and slept soundly.
On the fourth day, around 5 am we reached Kashi Vishwanath temple, and took our VIP pass, and saw there was a long queue. We stood in line for 2 hours. The original temple was called Adi Vishveshwar temple. This is one among 12 Jyotirlinga, the holiest Shiva temple. This temple was destroyed many times by Mughal rulers and reconstructed many times. The original 'Kashi Vishwanath' temple is said to have been built by King Vikramaditya perhaps as long as 2500 years ago, around the time of Varanasi's earliest history. The temple also appears in 'Kasha Kandra', an ancient text that may be as old as the 6th century. It is believed that Lord Shiva himself has declared this spot as his Royal residence. According to Purana's, Shiva appeared as a column of light, or Jyotirlinga, when Brahma and Vishnu argued about their supremacy. The places where Shiva's light pierced the earth became 12 Jyotirlingas, and Kashi Vishwanath is the 1st Jyotirlinga. It is believed - Baba Vishwanath, himself plans one's trip, whom he wants to see in Kashi. And it was a divine calling for us. As we approached the temple, its golden Shikhar stood in resplendent glory. Plated with gold, this luminous spire seemed less an architectural marvel and more a celestial flame, eternally guiding the lost soul’s home. We firstly took blessings from Dhundiraj Ganeshi ji and chanted hymns, one has to first offer prayers to Dhundiraj prior to Lord Vishwanath, and later offered prayers to Goddess Annapurna, who is regarded as the queen of Kashi alongside her consort Lord Vishwanath, the king of Kashi. In this temple, Worshipping Goddess Annapurna is believed to bring both material, abundance and spiritual fulfilment, creating a balanced life.
Holding a plate which consist of - Vibhuti, Milk, Water, Chandan, Bel Patra, Datura and some sweet which was offered to the lord Vishwanath, as I gazed upon the sacred Shivling, an overwhelming stillness engulfed me. R was chanting ‘Har Har Mahadev’, as my heartbeat took to a race I deeply in respect with gratitude, thanked the Lord for his divine blessings, guidance, and protection in our life. It was my heartfelt prayer acknowledging his role as the destroyer of negativity and the source of my inner peace and transformation. After our darshan in that freezing cold we sat inside the temple near a less crowded place and became just a witness of the moment. I went totally blank and was soaked in his presence and blessings. My heart was overwhelmed with gratitude and devotion. I never thought that this new year, our first visit will be to Kashi. I was living my dream. 'Kashi' - is also called as ' Cosmos city', because the city's design is believed to be aligned with the five elements of nature (earth, water, fire, air and space) according to Hindu scripts. It is a specific pilgrimage route representing these elements and their corresponding human body. These routes, are walked by countless devotees across millennia, and imbued with stories of devotion and miracles. We walked towards the exit gate of Kashi Vishwanath temple towards the mother divine - Goddess Vishalakshi Devi. A 10 min walk.
Vishalakshi Devi temple is dedicated to the mother divine. It is one of the 52 Shakti Peetha's, a network of sacred shrine. It is believed, Sati's eye or earring had fallen in this spot. The name Vishalakshi, who represents the big eye of the cosmic mother. According to scriptures it was built and maintained by 'Nattukottai Nagar Athar', a mercantile community from Tamil Nadu. The majority of devotees visiting this temple are from Andra Pradesh and Tamil Nadu. In this temple one can witness the sacred feminine energy. Bowing down to the mother divine in reverence, thanking her for all her grace and blessings in our life and with much gratitude, we started walking towards the exit. Due to the heavy crowd, we couldn't do much shopping. Spent a pleasant evening in our hotel and had an early dinner. As we had covered all the main temples, our Fifth day in Kashi, we had kept, a little easy, for our favourite early morning boat ride in 'Asi Ghat'. Which is a popular activity that offers views of the Ganges and sunrise.
We reached Asi Ghat around 8.30am and booked a decent Kayak boat. A narrow boat that is human - powered and propelled by a double-bladed. We sat in the boat and started our 1-hour journey, witnessing sunrise on different ghats on that misty morning, when winter was at its peak. We got to hear many interesting stories from our guide who was taking us on this boat ride. There was a group of Siberian Gulls flying over us. These birds arrive in Varanasi around November and stay here for two-three months. As the weather begins to warm up in March or April, they return back to their home - Siberia. As I was watching the Ganges, my mind was becoming more calmer, I felt total solitude. For a mind that is still and, in that stillness, there is an abundance of energy. This boat ride was through the timeless reflection of Kashi. The city illuminates truth and reveals reality. It does not bring new wonders into the scope of vision but enables one to see what already exists. This very body is indeed Kashi, the illumined divine field of cosmic energy and pure consciousness. In Asi ghat, people come together for a free morning session that includes Vedic chanting, Yoga and music. We took many pictures during our boat ride. It was a day of connection with your inner self and the divine. Due to the heavy crowd all over, our second part of the day we decided to spend a tranquil time and get charged up for our next day journey to the last destination in this trip.
These were our 5 magical, blissful days in Dev Nagari - Kashi. It is a place which outshines our dreams into reality.
Arz Kiya hai -
काशी में जीवन का एक अलग ही बहाव हैं,
व्यस्त हर गलियां, मगर फिर भी ठहराव हैं।
बिंदास जीवन मगर, मरघट से लगाव हैं,
यही काशी में रहने का अद्भुत प्रभाव हैं।।
नमः पार्वती पतये हर हर महादेव !
To be continued......