On a misty winter morning we arrived at the Prayagraj
railway station from Kashi, to witness the world's largest spiritual gathering
of the millennium. The 'Maha Kumbh Mela', a significant Hindu pilgrimage
festival, which was held in Prayagraj city, Uttar Pradesh. From January 13 to
February 26, 2025. It is celebrated every 12 years and is considered the
largest religious gathering in the world, attracting millions of devotees. This
year's 'Maha Kumbh' is believed to be a once-in-144-year event due to a rare
astronomical alignment. The event's key focus is the sacred bathing rituals
(Shahi Snans) at the Triveni Sangam, where the Ganga, Yamuna, and mythical
Saraswati rivers converge. In this, millions gather to bathe in the holy waters,
seeking purification and spiritual renewal. The sacred bathing rituals are a
central part of the festival, believed to wash away sins. The event is believed
to be an ultimate spiritual experience for Hindus. It is a once in a life-time opportunity
for the attendees and considered to mark the completion of 12 cycles of 12-year Kumbh Mela. It is said that, it takes about 12 years of 'Brihaspati' to go
around the sun, and thus 'Purna Kumbh' mela occurs when Jupiter completes the
orbit. As Jupiter moves through different zodiac signs, its position relative
to the Sun and Moon determines the specific location and timing of the Kumbh
Mela.
This Kumbh Mela, is held at four sacred locations: Haridwar,
Nashik, Ujjain and Prayagraj (Allahabad). These locations are chosen for their
spiritual and historical significance, especially for their proximity to holy
rivers like the Ganga, Yamuna, Godavari and Shipra. It is also chance for
devotees to engage in deep introspection, gain spiritual knowledge, and
strengthen their faith. The Kumbh symbolizes the union of the mortal body with
the divine.
It was half passed 7 in the morning, at the Prayagraj
railway station. After getting down we started walking towards auto stand to
fetch an auto or a cab to go to the boat club, so that we can hire a boat,
which will take us to the nearest Sangam point to take the holy dip, these tips
we got by our close friends who recently travelled to Kumbh. But divine has his
own planning. We walked down towards auto stand, but stood confused seeing
ocean of crowd. Finally got into an auto (tuktuk) which was not less than a
mini XUV. He told us that, he can drop us just 3 km before Sangam, it’s in a walking distance. Minimum 15 people can accommodate in that
electric auto. We somehow managed to enter the back side of the rickshaw. We
made R to sit inside, myself and N somehow managed, we were literally hanging
holding a small rod on the celling of auto. My one leg was outside hanging and
my dupatta was flying in air. It was no less than a scene from Bollywood’s
blockbuster movie Swadesh, in which a ocean of people travelling in a bus.
Hardly driver and rare mirror was seen (ha-ha). With jerks, speed breakers, and
bumpers and long annoying horn, we were dropped. We got down and were in total
confusion, where to go and how to reach Sangam.
Upon asking a army police, we understood. Sangam is minimum
10km far from the place where we were dropped. As we were in Prayagraj just 3
days before the Shahi Snan date, there was a torrent of crowd. People from all
walks of life were present in this auspicious event of millennium. Hence any
type of transport was strictly banned. Announcements were made by the police, to
just keep walking and not to gather groups and rush in between roads. It was
10am and we were exhausted and hungry. And we understood, our day is full of
surprises and uncertainty. So planned to have breakfast first. Get some energy
and start our walkathon. We walked almost for 5plus hours to reach Sangam. We
saw huge and very huge mass crowd walking towards the ghats to take holy dip.
And in no time, we became the eternal part of it. People carrying bags on their
head, with small kids, who were tied to a rope so that they should not go
missing in that supersonic crowd. We were just walking without looking up, as
we could see only the heads up of ocean of people, which made me claustrophobic.
It was definitely not an easy walk. We had few known contacts who were waiting
for us near Sangam, where the Akhadas' tent city was made to refresh. But due
to heavy rush, network was jammed. We couldn’t contact them, and we reached the
Sangam around 1.30 pm, in the noon. There were many bathing ghats, which
allowed the masses to take sacred bathing rituals.
Finally, we arrived to a ghat where we could see very less
crowd and the Sangam water to an extent looked clean, hence we decided to take
dip in this place itself. We planned to take a dip in the holy Sangam turn by turn.
Firstly, I went inside the water anxiously. I being not a water baby, at the confluence
of Holy Ganga, Yamuna and Sarswati, under the clear skies, on the shores of
pristine waters and in the midst of millions of voices chanting, I took my
first dip into the river. All those pain, anguish and phobia's seeing that
crowd, vanished in the first dip, sun was sharp and water was cold. After my
3rd dip, body was immersed in water, mind filled with the love of divine and
soul soaked in divine energy. I was in total gratitude from the bottom of my
heart for her divine calling. R and N were waiting near the shore of the river,
I came up and changed my clothes. Changing rooms were made near each ghats for
ladies. Now R and N went to take a holy dip. I was clicking their pictures.
They both were having a gala time playing and swimming in water. Barricades and
safety measures were made, which allowed people to take a dip or swim only up
to certain level in the Sangam. After experiencing the blissful dip, we went
near to a police van to check for food stall, We three were exhausted and
heavenly hungry. Upon speaking to a policemen, we got to know that we took dip in the VIP ghat, which was open only for esteemed guest. We were
so happy to know that, divine planned our sacred bath dip to taken in a most
calm and clean ghat. I just looked up to the sky and bow down in gratitude.
These are stories which make you believe and come close to the divine.
After having our lunch, we started walking towards the exit
to reach railway station, which was our second walkathon. We started walking
towards the city of Prayagraj in search of an auto which can drop us to the
railway station. But it turned to be a extremely chaotic, due to the rush going
back to their stationed place. It was 5pm in the evening and we were caught in
the middle of city, since no auto was free to drop us. My son broked down in
tears, seeing the crowd after walking for almost an entire day minimum 18 to
19km, in that heavily crowded city. It is natural for 11-year-old kid, who was so
patient and calm for almost 20 plus hours, as we started our journey early
morning. One has to be smart in this kind of crowded place. I couldn't see him
crying, N and I stopped a running auto and literally request him, saying we
have our train back to Kashi in next 30 minutes. That rickshaw man finally
agreed seeing us helpless. I offered him three times more money to drop, since
there was no other way. And he immediately agreed to drop us. As the rickshaw started, we took a deep breathe. R was happy and
totally exhausted, so were we. There was total silence. We were just watching
the people on the roads carrying heavy luggage waiting for transportation. It
was once in a lifetime experience. We were happy that R was able to witness
this. It was a huge learning for him.
My heart was overwhelmed watching those streets which was
filled with ocean of people. There were people from all walks of life. On
that day, I saw multitudes of people, streams of humanity all guided by faith
and spirituality. I witnessed the magnificence dharma, spirituality and
heritage. Some barely had clothes to cover their body, while others joined
in their luxury vehicles. There were small kids excited and joyful, elderly struggling
with frailties of health. I saw VIP's, their subjects, doctors, diseased. I saw
ascetics as well as spiritual people. And it did not matter. For I realised
that we are all one in that cosmic union. The Kumbh is not just about rituals,
it is about awakening your spirit and realizing your purpose in this world.
When we immerse ourself in the holy waters, you are not just cleansing your body,
but your mind and soul as well, beginning anew with divine blessings. We
reached railway station around 6pm, and got settled in the waiting lounge,
our train was around 8pm back to Kashi, where we were stationed. We planned Prayagraj as a day trip.
There was an unending happiness in me, after witnessing Maha Kumbh. It was just like a dream with open eye. In the waiting lounge we got to hear stories from people, who were on their way back home, like us. Few didn’t walk at all, they took a tour in the bike, with the help of locals, which was a smart move. We were clueless how to go about, other than the boat ride. Met a beautiful, tall, seamless soul, with whom I jelled very well. Spiritual yet modern, down to earth, independent yet homely. As far I got to know, she was a total travel baby, who had come along with her friend. After a refreshing 1 hour of chat, time to say bye, as she had a train back home. We exchanged numbers and assured to be in contact. And yes, we are in touch even now, thanks to social media.
It was 8pm and we boarded our train back to Kashi, R went to
sleep, which was expected. The lights went dim inside the train, on a winter
night, as I was watching outside my window, so many thoughts were ruminating in my
mind. On that day I witnessed, faith is a living, daring, confidence in God's
grace, so sure and certain that a human could stake his life on it a thousand
times. Inspite of such massive crowd, people from all walk of life, were
walking in faith to be one with the supreme power without any second thought. I
feel 'Faith is not a belief without proof, but trust without reservation'.
With this I am concluding my 'Eternal Quest', with a
beautiful quote from my Gurudev - Sri Sri Ravishankar ji -
"There are multiple ways and beliefs to attain the
divine, but being able to accept and honour them all, is what makes one truly
great and noble".....
Har Har Gange!